The writer visits Iran, starting in its bustling capital Tehran, where despite the boom in fast food outlets the dishes of the past still have a place in the hearts and culture of the people. Nigel is taken to lunch at his taxi driver's house to sample a popular stew known as dizi, then ventures north to the shores of the Caspian Sea to meet those who once fished for the famous beluga caviar, but now have to find other livings since sturgeon stocks have declined. Nigel explores the varied landscape, and harvests pomegranates and saffron, two items that epitomise Middle Eastern cuisine. Last in the series.